The sun came out and Alfredo, my Argentinian friend, and I are going to see a little town that we know nothing about and it’s going to give us a very satisfactory surprise.
Saint Alban was the first English saint, and this small town that bears his name is north of London. We arrive by train from Farringdon station and it takes us about 25 minutes.
We begin our journey through wisteria and enter the main street, what we first find is a beautiful independent bookstore, Books on the Hill, I love the setting, we realize that it has a first floor, where we find the desk, the typewriter, photos and letters of the English novelist and literary icon Daphne du Maurier (author of Rebecca). The reading area and small café are ideal.
We continue and in one of those side alleys we see a hotel, (the main façade is on the main street) we are struck by its description “Tudor hotel” and indeed it was, out of the years of Henry VIII, we enter and go back in time, there are even a couple of thrones in case we want to “rest without being beheaded” The White Hart, which is what’s called, has been here since 1470, place where Lord Lovat stayed on his way to be beheaded.
Instead of wandering around the center, we decide to go first to see the Roman ruins passing by the oldest pub in England that dates back to the eighth century, the Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, which became famous for organizing cockfights, the national pastime, hence its name. Fights were held for 600 years, until 1849, when they were banned (thank God!)
Its appearance today dates from the eleventh century and in it we observe the passage of time. It is said that there is a network of tunnels underneath that were used by the monks of the time.
There is a bucolic stream nearby, and we enter the beautiful Verulamium park, where we find the different Roman ruins, as well as a lake, trees, the cathedral in the distance, a divine display.
The first ruins that come our way are those of the Roman Wall, followed by the London Gate.
Protected by a building we can admire a beautiful Roman mosaic.
The wild garden surrounding the Verulamium museum is beautiful and houses all kinds of plants and insects. The museum shows us the daily life of the Romans.
We continue to find more and more beautiful corners. On the way to the Roman theater we find this little house that couldn’t be more beautiful.
It is surrounded by a beautiful display of English countryside, and there is also the entrance to the Roman Theatre (entry fee £3). They are installing spotlights for a Summer Festival event.
We continue walking towards the center and make a stop at the Six bells pub, where some friendly patrons share with us a few stories of the place and the two, now dissapeared pubs.
At the Wafle House they have been creating savory and sweet wafles since 1979, it has a large terrace and outdoor area by the river, which on a beautiful day like today, is perfect to enjoy one of their savory delicacies. We realize that there are many babies in this small town, we’re surrounded by strollers.
There is no corner that is not beautiful and charming, and admiring them we arrive at the Cathedral, which in its day was the largest building in the country and it seems that in one of its chapels the coronation of Sean Connery in the movie “The First Knight” was filmed.
It is grandiose and some walls have beautiful medieval paintings. A kind volunteer showed us some of its rooms, and in one there was something she challenged us to find, a “modern” addition to a renovated part. Can you see it?
Next to the cathedral and its beautiful gardens is the School, to get to it you cross the Great Door of the Monastery that was erected in 1360, it is said that the third English printing press was located here, in 1479 it was a prison and since 1871 it has been part of the School of St. Albans.
On the way back to the center we pass by the small and cute Village Arcade, at the back of which is the Abigail Tea Room.
In the heart of the place stands the Clock Tower, built between 1403 and 1412 it is the only medieval tower left in England and was the one that marked the curfew in 1800.
There is a somewhat “unbalanced” house in the center of the main street where you will find cafes and restaurants.
Back at the train station we passed by the Odyssey Cinema, which they wanted to tear down and was saved by its neighbours. It retains its Art Deco style.
On the train we discuss the book Hamnet by Maggie O’Farrell. We don’t know much about the story behind the play Hamlet, by the famous Shakespeare, O’Farrell tells us the story of William and Agnes’ son, Hamnet, who dies at a young age and on whom the play is believed to have been based. The story is also an ode to Agnes, the playwright’s spouse, how she lived, suffered and brought her family forward. A marvel that will not disappoint you.
