Florence can also be savored from its historic cafés, true salons of memory. Caffè Gilli, opened in 1733, or Caffè Concerto Paszkowski are places where time seems to stand still. You don’t need to order a coffee to enjoy them: just step inside, let yourself be enveloped by the lamps, mirrors, and high ceilings, and watch the city pulse through the windows. These are corners that tell stories of gatherings, artists, and wanderers from other eras, and today they are still perfect for taking a pause amid the Florentine bustle.
From there, I wandered to the Piazza della Signoria, a true open-air museum. The portico of the Loggia dei Lanzi is full of sculptures that tell stories in marble. In front of the Palazzo Vecchio, the square beats with energy. Among tourists and locals, a golden statue with a mobile in her hand caught my eye; if it weren’t for her height, she could have passed for any of us.
Further on, I admired the David, although it’s worth noting that the statue in the square is a copy; the original is protected inside the Galleria dell’Accademia.
Very close by, in the Giunti Odeon bookstore-cinema, an old cinema converted into a bookstore, the magic of the screen coexists with books. They still show old films in front of a couple of rows of worn-out armchairs, for romantics who seek the perfect blend of cinema and literature.
A few steps away, the Loggia del Mercato Nuovo has become a place to buy souvenirs and touch the famous Porcellino, hoping to take a little Florentine luck with you.
The stroll continued at another iconic café: Rivoire, with its vaulted and gilded ceilings, pink armchairs, and marble floors. Every corner is a work of art. And as if the city weren’t already beautiful enough, the Galleria degli Uffizi awaited me, where each room is a journey through the Renaissance. Among so many masterpieces, pausing in front of La Primavera feels like time itself stops.
The Arno River shone green and calm under the sun as I crossed the Ponte Vecchio, that much-photographed bridge that is still surprising in person. On this side of the river stands the bookstore that gave its name to the book that introduced it to me, La piccola farmacia letteraria.
From there, I headed to the Piazzale Michelangelo, climbing stairs up to the hill that offers one of the best views of Florence. On the way down, I discovered the Rose Garden, where I improvised a small picnic. I must admit that finding vegan options is not easy in the land of the bistecca fiorentina, but under the roses and with the city view, everything tasted better.
I kept walking and came across plaques with Dante’s verses, which seemed to accompany me around every corner. I reached the Porta Romana and from there entered the Bardini Gardens, a hidden treasure with terraces full of views. Soon after, the path led me to the Forte di Belvedere and finally to the Giardini di Boboli, located behind the Palazzo Pitti. They are an open-air museum, with statues, ponds, and artificial caves. Upon reaching the palace, I discovered a mosaic exhibition where the blues seemed to vibrate. From the large courtyard, the fountains and the view of Florence’s rooftops with the Duomo on the horizon left me speechless.
After so much walking, a surprise appeared: the Todo Modo bookstore. From the outside, it looked small, but inside I discovered a passage leading to a café and a reading room. It was love at first sight. Little did I know it would become my second Florentine home: a place where I’m recognized, where a hot tea and conversations with friends await, and a quiet corner to read.
A new day took me to the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, where I discovered two treasures: the small and beautiful Chapel of the Magi, like a miniature Sistine Chapel, and the spectacular Hall of Mirrors, which seems to multiply light and history in every corner.
But who is the absolute protagonist of Florence? Without a doubt, Michelangelo’s David. I tried to see him in the morning at the Galleria dell’Accademia, but the tickets were sold out. I didn’t give up: when I spoke with the museum staff in Italian, they stopped treating me like a tourist and showed me how to get a ticket. Later, I returned and finally had him in front of me. Majestic, perfect, almost unreal. No photo can convey what it feels like to see him face to face.
At Todo Modo I met Lorena and Maria Elena a Mexican and a Florentine who shared with me not just an afternoon, but also my last evening in the city. We had dinner together at a small vegan spot we found near the bookstore —a real gem in Florence!— and then strolled to Santa Croce, the perfect finale to my visit. Thank you, girls!
Literary note
On this literary stroll through Florence, one classic couldn’t be missing: The Girls of San Frediano by Vasco Pratolini. A novel that portrays life in a working-class neighborhood in post-war Florence, with its loves, entanglements, and lively characters. Amid the geniuses who made the city a capital of art, Pratolini reminds us that Florence is also made of small stories, of neighbors, squares, and lives that pulse through its streets.
