Day 1 – Exploring Hanoi
I arrived last night in bustling Hanoi and stayed in the Old Quarter. This morning I headed out to explore and immediately came across scenes that felt straight out of a painting: bicycles and carts piled high with goods, and the traditional pole with two baskets hanging from it (a yoke, or đòn gánh), carried by a woman in a conical hat, balancing everything with remarkable skill. Definitely a very “Vietnamese” scene.
After exchanging money at a jewelry shop (I shared my tips in the first post) and crossing several streets packed with motorbikes and cars (the hotel even provides instructions on how to do it), I did so calmly and confidently—this wasn’t my first rodeo. I stopped by a few temples and the famous The Note Cafe, where you can enjoy a rather pricey coffee and leave a post-it with your message. Coffee culture here is huge: cafés with low tables and tiny stools, and specialties like egg coffee (cà phê trứng), one of Hanoi’s most famous drinks. It’s made by whisking egg yolk with sugar and a bit of condensed milk until it becomes a light, foamy cream, which is then poured over strong coffee. The result is a creamy, sweet, aromatic drink—almost like a liquid flan, meant to be savored sip by sip. It can be served hot or cold. I didn’t try it, as you know I don’t drink coffee, so you’ll have to tell me if you do!
My first “official” stop was Train Street. Colorful cafés line up just centimeters from the tracks; I found it vibrant and absolutely loved it.
Nearby, I discovered Tranquil Books and Coffee, hidden down a narrow alley. There I tried Marou hot chocolate—intense and delicious—and spent a good while reading and writing. I thought I had found my refuge, although I didn’t yet know it wouldn’t be my favorite one.
When I left, I was surprised to see a hairdresser working right on the street—something very common in Hanoi.
Temple of Literature
I visited the Temple of Literature, built in three phases and dedicated to Confucius and the imperial examinations. Every detail has meaning: touching the head of the turtle is said to bring good luck in exams. It’s a place full of history and symbolism, where I felt culture seeping into every pore.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
I reached the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, where the line to pass through security was quite long. As usual, I took advantage of the wait to read on my Kindle. We were able to see the Presidential Palace and the house where he lived, and I learned a great deal about his life and legacy.
Ho Chi Minh was a key figure in Vietnam’s history: he founded the Viet Minh, proclaimed the country’s independence in 1945, and led the struggle against France and later the United States. He lived in a simple stilt house by a lake, showing his closeness to the people. He remains a symbol of independence, unity, and resistance.
Hoan Kiem Lake and Tran Quoc Pagoda
I took a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and visited Tran Quoc Pagoda, a Buddhist temple on a small island. In Buddhist temples, alcohol is never offered. I also saw some very amusing illustrated panels about the laws of karma, from which I noted down several ideas.
Day 2 – Sailing Ha Long Bay
I was picked up by motorbike and taken to the coach that, two hours later, brought us to the stunning Ha Long Bay. There, we boarded a boat where lunch was served as we set sail. I sat with other vegan and vegetarian travelers—a thoughtful detail I really appreciated.
The boat moved slowly among nearly two thousand islands and islets, creating a breathtaking landscape. Not long ago, fishermen and pearl farmers lived here, but they were relocated to nearby lagoons to clear the bay for tourism. Some people still live in the area, while others now make a living rowing tourists in small boats or operating motorboats.
There’s also the option to spend the night in the bay, but I chose the one-day tour, which felt more than enough for me.
We arrived at a beach where we docked alongside other boats and queued to enter an impressive cave—actually three caves, the third one being enormous. As is my habit, I read while waiting in line.
The final activity was climbing many steps up a small island, rewarded with incredible panoramic views of the bay.
What the tour included
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Coach transportation
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Lunch and tea on board
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Kayak or rowing boat ride (motorboat optional for an extra USD 10)
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Cave visit
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Climb up to the island viewpoint
Literary Note
On this journey, a very special book accompanied me—one that also opened the year with me: My Friends by Fredrik Backman. It has been, without a doubt, one of the best books I’ve read in a long time.
It’s a story about friendship, the passage of time, and the marks we leave—and that others leave on us. Backman writes with his signature blend of tenderness, humor, and melancholy, reminding us that life isn’t measured only by big moments, but by the bonds that hold us when everything changes.
I read this book between transfers, waits, and silences: in quiet Hanoi cafés, in endless queues, in moments stolen from the journey. Perhaps that’s why it resonated so deeply. Because traveling is also about pausing, observing, and letting stories—our own and those of others—intertwine.
My Friends is about growing up, losing, reconnecting, and understanding that friendship is a form of home. A book that truly accompanied me, and that will now forever be linked to this journey through Vietnam and the beginning of a new year.
